We only work with the best makes of chemicals, offering our clients a wide range of pool treatment products, that will help to keep the pools water clean and clear, aswell as hygienic.

Flocculant

This chemical is used in pool maintenance when the pool becomes cloudy because of suspended particles in the water that the filter is incapable of catching. This treatment must be made with an optimum level of pH and chlorine / salt, with no bathers in the pool and left over night, the particles will stick together and sink to the bottom. The next morning the particles on the bottom can be cleaned with the vacuum, leaving the water clean and clear.

Chlorine

Used as a disinfectant in pools, be it in solid or liquid form, concentrated tablets, powder, granulated, or even through a salt machine that creates natural chlorine. For a salt machine to produce chlorhine, the water must be lightly salted (4gr per litre of water). The salt machine uses small discharges of electricity to transform the salt (NaCI) into sodium hypochlorite that disinfects the water. We recommend the Zodiac range of salt water chlorinators.

Nivel de pH

In general, the pH of pool water tends to rise. This is a result of chlorination, swimmer's wastes (sweat, urine, . . .) and nature's tendency to balance the pH of standing water at about 8.5 .

High pH can be reduced with an acid or pH reducer in powder. The most common pH reducers are:

• liquid clorhidric acid (added by hand)
• liquid sulphuric acid (via pH regulating machines)
• dry acid (sodium bisulphate).

Extreme care must be taken when adding pH reducer to the pool, as negligence can result in serious burns. Before adding the reducer, be sure there are no swimmers in the water and that the pump is running. You will need a plastic bucket to mix the acidic mix in.

Always add acid to water; never add water to acid! 3/4 fill the bucket with water from the pool. Add the acid to the bucket and pour it slowly around the deep end of the pool. If you are adding a large quantity of acid, do it in stages - DON'T add large amounts of acid to the pool at one time. Allow the pump to circulate the water for at least 4 hours and then test the pH again. A pH reading of 7.0-7.6 is required, with 7.2 being the ideal level.

If you add too much acid to the pool at one time, you risk etching the walls, corroding the pipes and pump fittings and you lower the total alkalinity of the water.

Low pH is increased with an alkali - this is most commonly in the shape of a powder pH increaser, available in 8kg buckets.

Antialgae

It is not always possible to identify a type of algae without microscopic examination and this, of course, requires a trained individual. Most algae problems involve green water, cloudy or hazy water, slimy walls and surfaces and a lack of adequate pool water sanitizing. Most algae problems respond quickly to proper treatment. However, if current attempts to control an algae problem are not meeting with success, the problem should be considered to be that of a resistant-algae condition and should be treated in a manner similar to black algae. Water mold and slimes can be treated in a manner similar to that of "Pink" algae. Algae can be controlled with various products including: swimming pool sanitizers, algaecides, shock treatment and phosphate eliminators.

We stock two main types of antialgae liquids, one for green algae and the other for black algae, both come in 5 litre bottles.

Chemical parametres of a normal pool

• Porcentage of free chlorine: 1,5 - 2,0 mg/L (1,5 - 2,0 ppm). Chlorine can be added manually, or via an automated salt machine.
• Salinity: 4 g/L (4 kg/m³). From time to time, it may be necessary to add more salt.
• pH: 7,2 - 7,6 (ideal level is 7,2 - 7,4) The level can be reduced via acid, or a specific Ph reducer, and can be increased with a pH increaser (pH +), or sodium bicarbonate: NaHCO3.
• TAC, Alcalinidad total: 8 - 15 ºf (80 - 150 ppm). High alcalinity produces unstable pH levels.
• TH, water hardness: < 40 ºf (<400 ppm)